Compost tea

Compost Tea

What is it? And why should I use it?

In todays article I wanted to cover a fairly broad topic. But one that comes with a lot of confusion. We will be talking about compost tea. How to brew it. Do's and don'ts.

There's going to be a lot to unpack here, so I want to start off the conversation with pre-packaged tea's VS home made recipes.


Pre-mixed VS Home Made


There are actually quite a few good pre-mixed tea's out there. For example.


Red Frog Premium Blend Compost Tea

Good all around tea. Well balanced for any part of the growth cycle.


Xtreme Tea Brews

It's mykos, earthworm castings and kelp. Not as many inputs as others, but the price point for a 5 gallon brew is good.


Vital Tea

This is essentially vital earths compost tea blend. Minus the Mykos and Fish Hydrosylate.


Home Made

We're always going to start out with a place for the microbes to live and breed. Typically we'll start off with a blend of worm castings and compost. Below I will give you a list of various inputs. And to the best of my knowledge, what they are supposed to do.


Brewing Inputs

Here I'm going to add a small, but fairly detailed list of potential inputs you can use. While in my opinion, teas are better for brewing life. Some people like to brew for nutrients. The below like will show you generally what things you can add in, and what they'll do. Please bear in mind, that if you're brewing for life, the higher the NPK value is, the less environmentally friendly you're making your brew for life cultivation.

Ingredient NPK What does it do?
Alfalfa Meal 2.5-0.5-2.5 Adds NPK to brews, also a natural source of Triacontanol
Azomite 0-0-0.2 Adds trace minerals to brew. Especially good if starting with RO Water
Bloodmeal 12-0-0 Adds nitrogen, can scare away some small pests. 
Bone Meal 3-15-0 Adds slow release Phosphoros and Calcium
Crab Meal 4-3-0 Adds NPK, Calcium and Chitin
Fish Bone Meal 3-16-0 Adds fast release NPK, Calcium and trace elements
Fish Meal 8-6-0 Adds NPK, and fish oils that can feed beneficial bacteria
Humic Acid 0-0-0 Chelates Minderals, can make nutrients more Bio-Avaialble
Kelp Meal 1-0.1-2 Trace Minerals, Amino Acids, Cytokinins, and simple carbohydrates.
Langbeinite 0-0-22 Adds Sulfur, Potassium and Magnesium
Neem Seed Meal 6-1-2 Slow release Nitrogen, can deter some bugs. 
Oyster Shell 0-0-0 Adds Calcium
Rock Phosphate 0-3-0 Adds Phosphorus
Shrimp Meal 6-6-0 Source of Chitin, NPK and Trace Minerals
Soybean Meal 7-1-2 Adds Nitrogen, and plant based amino acids 
Molasses 0-0-0 Can feed some Beneficial Bacteria
Mykos 0-0-0 Is a mycorrhizae based innoculant
Great White 0-0-0 Is a mycorrhizae & Beneficial bacterially based innoculant. 
Fish Hydrosylate 2-4-0 Feeds mycorrhizae, and beneficial Bacteria
Compost n/a A living and breeding space for beneficial bacteria
Earth Worm Castings 1-0-0 A living and breeding space for beneficial bacteria



Here we will be discussing brewing methods and the various brewers you can use. As you may imagine there are likely an infinite things we could build, and methods we can use. But this should be a good jumping off point.



What you will need:

5 Gallon Bucket

Air Pump (You can use a single outlet pump, but the bigger the better.

Air Stone (Optionally, you can use the Bubble Snake)

Brew Bag



Fill the bucket up to 3 or 4 gallons with dechlorinated water. Add the liquid Ingredients of your recipe into the bucket. Put the dry ingredients into the bag. attach the air stone to the pump, and put it on the bottom of the bucket. Put the bag in the water. Try to position the bag so that it's only roughly half submersed in the water. Bubble the mixture from 4-24 hours depending on temperature and recipe. 


Conical Brewer

What you will need:

60 Gallon Conical brewer

Commercial Air Pump

3/8 Tubing

1/2 Grommet

2" PVC Straight

2" PVC Elbow

2" Shut Off

55 Gallon Brew Bag


PVC Cement



The bottom of the tank will have a 2" Output. So grab your 2" fittings, and either thread them into place, or if they don't have threads glue them into place. The order should be Elbow>Straight>Shut Off.

Now in the 2" straight, drill a hole big enough for the 1/2 grommet to fit very snug. If you did it right, the tubing should barely be able to fit into the grommet. Once you are satisfied with the seal. Use your silicon on the bottom of the grommet to ensure there are no leaks. In my experience, the tightness of the seel is good enough to not have to silicon the tubing, but if you want to. Feel free.

Once everything is dry, hook up the other end of the tubing to the commercial air pump. Fill the brewer with chlorinated water. Clip together your brew bag and slide it through the hole at the top of your brewer lid. In my case, I also slide a bamboo stake between the hole and the clip to ensure the whole thing doesn't fall in.

Try to position the bag so that it's only roughly half submersed in the water. Bubble the mixture from 4-24 hours depending on temperature and recipe.


How Long Should I brew?

I know I gave you a time limit before, but that's not always necessarily true. It actually depends a bit on what you want your brew to be. If your going for Fungus/Bacteria that will depend on how dominant you want each to be. Generally bacteria grows faster, and will out grow fungus if given time to do so. For fungal Dominant teas, I generally recommend a shorter brew.

For Bacterially dominant longer brews start to make sense. But we also have to take temperature into account. in a typical 70-75 degree environment, a bacterial brew can take 24-48 hours. In hotter temperatures like 85, you'll only want to give it half that time, due to the potential anaerobic conditions. The hotter water gets, the less it's able to hold onto oxygen. And if the oxygen gets too low you, may accidentally invite some bacteria that you didn't really want in your brew.

If you're essentially just trying to brew your own nutrients, the more time you spend the better. Generally a 2 day brew is reasonable. What you're really looking for though, is for all the soluble compounds to get solved so that you're only left with the remaining carbon.


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